Warne's model cookery and housekeeping book : containing complete instructions in household management / compiled and edited by Mary Jewry.

Dacon.—If bacon is good the rind is thin, the fat firm and pinkish, the lean tender and adhering to the bone. Rusty bacon has yello\v streaks in it. Mams are tried by sticking a knife or skewer into them up to the knuckle ; if when drawn out it has a nice smell, the ham is good. A bad scent will be perceived if it is tainted. The roasting joints of pork are the spare rib, loin, and leg ; the other joints are salted ; the leg may also be cured and boiled. The sides or flitches are made into bacon. The leg makes a ham. Meat should be wiped with a dry, clean cloth as soon as it comes from the butcher's ; flyblows should be cut out, and in loins, the long pipe that runs by the bone should be taken out, as it soon taints ; the kernels also should be removed from beef. Never re- ceive bruised joints. If you wish to keep your meat hanging longer than ordinary, dredge it well with pepper. Powdered charcoal dusted over it will also prevent its tainting, nay, will absolutely remove the taint from meat already gone. We have seen a pair of fowls quite green from un- avoidably long keeping made fresh and sweet as ever by being sprinkled with powdered charcoal for an hour before 'Iressing. In hot summers it is very ad- visable to keep a lump of charcoal in the larder. Meat becomes more digestible and tender by hanging, but lamb and veal can- not be kept so well as beef and mutton. Remember that the best, and therefore the dearest joints are the most economical in the end, because they contain more solid meat than the others ; but very large joints are not economical for a small family ; nor are they as wholesome as our old fashioned English prejudices once deemed them. Poultry and Game, to Choose, Turkey.—The cock bird, when young, has a smooth bkek leg with a short spur. The eyes are briglit and full, and the feet supple, when fresh ; the absence of these s'gns denotes age and staleness ; the hen may be judged by the same rules. Fowls.—The young cock has a smoo;h leg and a short spur ; when fresh, the vent is close and dark. Hens, when young, have smooth legs and combs ; when old, these will be rough ; a good capon has a thick belly and large rump, a pod comb, and a swelling breast. Geese.—In young geese the feet and bills will be yellow and free from hair. When fresh, the feet are pliable ; they are stiff when stale. Ducks may be selected by the same rules. Pigeons, when fresh, have supple feet, and the vent will be firm ; if discoloured they are stale. Plovers, when fat, have hard vents ; but like almost all other birds, may be chosen by the above rules. Hares.—When a hare is young and fresh, the cleft in the lip is narrow, the body stiff, and the claws are smooth and sharp ; old and stale hares will be the opposite of this. Rabbits the same. In order to ascer- tain whether a hare is young or old, turn the claws sideways ; if they crack it is young. The ears also should be tender, and capable of bending easily. Partridges.—Yellow legs and dark bill are signs by which a young bird may be known ; a rigid vent when fresh. When this part is green the bird is stale. Pheasants may be chosen as above; the young birds are known by the short or round spur, which in the old is long and pointed. Moor Game. — Grouse, Woodcocks, Snipes, Quails, Ortolans, &c., may be chosen by tile rules above given. Choose white legged fowls for boiling, and dark for roasting. To Choose Fish. The eyes of fish, if fresh, are bright, the gills of a fine clear red, the body stiff, and the smell not unpleasant. Chloride of soda will restore fish that is not e.\tremely fresh, but it is never so good as when it has not been kept. A turbot should be thick ; the under side of a pale yellowish white, the colour of rich cream. The salmon and the cod should have a small head, very thick shoulders, and a small tail. The flesh of the salmon should be of a bright red colour, the scales very bright. Do not buy herrings, mackerel, or whit- ings unless quite fresh, and do not attempt to keep them even till the ne.\t day. Cod may be kept twenty-four hours. Soles the same. Eels should be bought alive. Crabs and lobsters should be heavy and very stiff; if they feel limp they are stale. They are often bought alive. Oysters, if fresh, will close forcibly on the knife when opened. If the shell gapes in the least degree, the oyster is losing its freshness. When the fish is dead the shell remains open. Small “natives” are the best oysters for eating ; for sauces or other culinary purposes the larger kinds are good enough. To Choose Eggs. Shake the eggs ; if they are bad they will rattle. But we think the best plan is to put